In
a quiet quad in the Halandri district of Athens, not far from the Olympic Park,
is the sort of place you never want to leave. It’s a proper pub, not a wannabe
dressed up pretending to be a pub: there’s dark wood, old beer signs, beer
glasses everywhere, bottles lined up, good beer on tap, TV tuned to sports,
punk music adds an edge, but more importantly than the aesthetics, there’s the
atmosphere, a warming and welcoming vibe as people sit around and chat in small
groups, while Fotis, the owner, who knows everyone, pours the pints in between
ordering the best beers he can buy (just check out their Facebook galleries to see what they're drinking). It's The Local Pub.
Greece
doesn’t have many beer bars. It doesn’t have much of a beer drinking culture;
at least not the type of culture we might imagine in Britain. Beer, to most Greeks,
is seen as summer refreshment. It’s a cold beer on a hot day. And it’s a lager.
They don’t really do bar crawls or anything like that. Beer is something to go
with dinner, or before it. But it’s different in The Local Pub. People visit
here for the same reasons we visit any beer bar around the world: to drink a
variety of different beers.
In
The Local Pub you’ll find beers on tap from some of the new and exciting Greek
microbreweries. You won’t find these beers in many other places; Fotis orders
them especially. He also orders bottles and kegs from around the world so that
he can have a broad range of beers on tap. When I’m there Raging Bitch is on
tap (at 6 euros a pint it’s cheaper than I’ll drink it in London) and they’ve
just got a shipment of BrewDog beers meaning all the locals are sharing bottles
of Paradox; but I’m not drinking those because I want the new Greek beers.
“No
Hops, No Glory” is the t-shirt-ready slogan of The Local Pub and that’s
definitely what the drinkers are interested in. Septem’s unfiltered Pale Ale is
my first beer and it’s a perfect pale ale. So vibrantly juicy with hop flavour
(Saaz, Citra, Nelson Sauvin), it’s elegant and light yet loaded with flavour.
They also make a brilliant Pilsner (though most Greek drinkers here avoid
lagers and pilsners like they’re made with cyanide or something...), this one
has got a glorious hop freshness from Perle and Motueka. Then the Santorini's Crazy Donkey comes
out. A big booming brilliant IPA loaded with American hops. It’s excellent. And
there’s a lot more Greek beer on tap and in the fridges, chosen from the dozen-or-so
small breweries and beers you can normally only find local to where it’s
brewed.
The Local Pub is the best bar in Greece if you want to drink local beer (and you really should; there’s some fantastic beer being brewed out there right now). It’s also the best place if you want bottles and draft from around the world. Just don’t go looking for a pint of cold lager because you won’t find it there.
In Athens I stayed at the Civitel Olympic hotel. It's very nice and not far from The Local Pub.
sounds great, duly noted for potential Greece visit this year
ReplyDeleteI lived in Athens from 1989-1995. There were beer bars that sold a wide range of Belgian, German, Finninsh British beers to name a few countries. I remember one being in the Exharchia area of Athens (the anarchist area) the othe was called To Vini (in Greek it means malt). That was in Koukaki where I lived and they did really good meat & cheese platters. I think it's great that places like this are opening in a country with so much unrest.
ReplyDeleteExcellent stuff, mark - you know I've been waiting to read these articles by you for a while. On the list it goes; I'd love to get back to Athens. Only visited once - no beer aside from ice-cold Mythos with my lunch, and back to where we were staying. It mesmerised me for the time I was there, and found it difficult to reconcile it with the austerity riots on the news last year. A wonderful, crazy city.
ReplyDelete