I
go with the intention of trying as much new beer as possible. I get there, grab
my glass, and go for an old favourite to get started – Gadds’ No. 3 (properly
English with that mouth-coating background of malt, a distant sack of apples and pears
and the epitome of balance). This makes sense. It’s a little warm-up before we
properly get on a beer tour of Britain.
Finding
a seat, I read through the beer list and scribble some notes and ticks and
arrows, just to make it easier for later when I’ve been up and down the bar a
few times – it’s about drinking tactics.
So
I start with No. 3 and then I fancy another Kent beer because the festival is
in Margate. I’ve been reading about steam beer recently so went back to Gadds
for a Common Conspiracy – the body is bulky yet refined, it’s dry and has a
brilliant candy and floral aroma; a little taste of San Francisco in East Kent.
From
now I’m off on my beer tour. There’s names I know and those I don’t. From
Ramsgate Brewery I get about 30 miles away to Hop Fuzz, a new Kent-based
brewery. I order The American, 4% and made with US hops. “Do you want to try it
first? It tastes weird,” says the guy serving. “What’s weird about it, I ask?”
When the reply is “tangy and piney” I expect that I’m getting a huge hop bomb
the likes that this man on the bar has never experienced before. Instead it delivers
more phenolic smoke than a bucket of Laphroaig, so I order Williams Bros.
Ceilidh instead. It’s super pale, sweet first then comes a doughy, almost
chocolately note, followed by fresh grass and a clean bitterness. It’s good but
lager in cask...? I think I’d rather take it on keg.
It’s
then back down south and to Kent Brewery where Summer Wheat was an intriguing
mix of light esters (banana, clove) which strike at exactly the same time as
the big dose of German hops which instead of giving a delicate finish makes it
rocket off in an unexpected direction. It’s a brilliant little tongue twister
of a beer.
Then
I went for the hops. Dark Star Revelation was on the exciting edge of balance (‘like
sitting on the edge of a mountain’ my notes read...), never sweet and never too
bitter but loaded with proper juicy American hop flavour – seriously good. Then
Gadds’ South Pacific IPA, which was unexpectedly subtle for the 6.5% ABV but
great because of it – lemony, floral and tropical fruit. This was part of an
IPA threesome along with West Coast IPA and East Kent IPA, which was No.3 on
some serious steroids.
And
then my beer of the festival. Made by Canterbury Brewers at The Foundry (a cool
brewpub), Hoppin’ Belgian is the best example I’ve tasted of Belgian yeast and
American hops getting it on. I hate citrusy C-hops which clash with clove in
most Belgo-American beers but here it was beautifully done – an amazing aroma
of mango, tangerine and pineapple, super juicy, then more fruit and fruity
esters with no nudge from the phenolic side, just a faint spiciness which lets
you know it’s definitely Belgian. It was so good I had another. And I almost
went back for a third half. (Canterbury Brewers’ Red Rye was also one of the
best beers on the bar. A sweetly nutty aroma plus a little rye spice then zesty
and punchy from the Chinook and Citra.)
Summer
Wine’s Diablo IPA almost split my tongue in half with brutal bitterness so a
Bristol Beer Factory Milk Stout came along to sooth with its chocolate
milkshake vibe, light roastiness and delicious balance – it’s a fun beer and I really
like it.
Then
looking back over the beer list and the ticks it’s more Gadds beer, more
Bristol, more Dark Star, some Otley. Outstanding’s SOS gave the beer tasting
note of the day: ‘like gunning Persil from a sponge’ as it was so bitter.
Another cask lager, Peerless’ Storr, was unfortunately a glass of butter which was dumped and
swapped after one sip. There was a Stewart beer, a Thornbridge, Tryst, a Waen
and a Crouch Vale Amarillo – all breweries and beers I’d had before (except the
Stewart Coconut Porter which I can’t really remember drinking...).
My
intention to drink far and wide didn’t really happen, looking back. Or it did
happen but it was down roads I’ve been on many times before. I stuck to the
breweries I know and trust and when I left that safe path I got hit with diacetyl,
TCP, too many hpos or just boring beer. But I got to drink a lot of excellent
beer from the breweries I know and I’d rather play safe and drink a beer which
I know is good (or from a brewery I know make good stuff) rather than risking
something new from a brewery I’ve never heard of – that seems to be where my
drinking is now.
I
think there’s a Premier League of breweries in the UK and when their beers are
on the bar it’s hard to ignore them, even if I’m looking to try new things.
The
photo at the top is the beer festival 15 minutes after the doors opened... Seriously.
I recently had a beer that tasted like TCP from a brewery that you mentioned in your post, one that I love. I was convinced it was the fault of the bar and they'd not cleaned the lines properly but when I went to the bar to talk to them about it they said it was fine.
ReplyDeleteFrom this, I learnt a very valuable lesson: Always try before you buy. I probably should've learned this a while ago but I'd never had an experience like that before.
"I stuck to the breweries I know and trust SNIP..... I’d rather play safe and drink a beer which I know is good (or from a brewery I know make good stuff) rather than risking something new from a brewery I’ve never heard of – that seems to be where my drinking is now."
ReplyDeleteYou are starting to tread the true path of enlightenment. Forays into the unknown are still worthwhile, but playing Russian Roulette with beer usually ends up in disappointment.
Nothing wrong with cask lager. But there's plenty wrong with inexperienced or incompetent breweries who can't control a lager fermentation process properly and then expect people to drink the result. There's some really dreadful cask "lager" about. (Not talking about Ceilidh here, though I find it too sweet). Which makes it even more important to choose a brewery you can rely on, I suppose.
ReplyDeleteIt’s good but lager in cask...? I think I’d rather take it on keg.
ReplyDeleteThat's an unusually closed-minded comment for you. Was anything wrong with it that kegging would have fixed?
Phil - When I order lager, I expect certain things from it. One is carbonation. I want lager to be crisp and refreshing with good flavour. I've also had Ceilidh in bottle and keg and prefer it with bubbles.
DeletePT looks like *such* a good festival - and is it me or has it grown in recent years? That Common sounds great, too - not a style you see a lot of (if you discount 'Amber Lagers/Beers' , of course). Nice write up, like the style.
ReplyDeleteHow many autographs did you sign?
ReplyDeleteEddie is a world-class brewer in my Premier League. That's for sure.
ReplyDelete